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Some of the information on this page is brought to you courtesy of Kirsch.
YourBlinds.com is not responsible for the outcome of any fixes you attempt as a result of reading the information on this page. If you purchased your window covering from YourBlinds.com and you determine that you need to seek warranty service, please contact us and we will be glad to assist you.
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When the blind is packaged for shipment the slats are fully raised. When you initially attempt to lower the slats the cord lock may not release causing the slats to not lower. First, mount the blind in the window. Then hold the lift cords level with the headrail and pull. This should release the cord lock. If this does not fix the problem, take the blind out of the window. Locate the cord lock mechanism in the headrail (the lift cords run through this). You will see a pin that should slide (but does not). Using a flat head (avoiding contact with the cording) screwdriver, turn the screwdriver perpendicular to the headrail. Push the pin to disengage the cords. NOTE: As soon as you release the pin, the slats will lower. Be sure no one is in the way when the slats release or they may be injured.
Some times the tilt rod becomes disconnected from the tilt mechanism in the headrail due to not so gentle handling during shipment. As a result the tilt mechanism moves but the slats do not. To fix, remove the blind from the window. In the headrail you will see a long metal rod that runs the length of the headrail. You will also see the mechanism housing the tilt cording. Simply push the end of the tilt rod back into the tilt mechanism housing. Push the rod through to get a secure position for the tilt. Replace the blind in the window.
Remove blind from window. If a wand tilt, remove the wand. If cord tilt, remove the tassels. Remove metal end brace or plastic end cap from the headrail. Slide the tilt rod out of the tilter just enough to clear it. Replace the tilter and push down until it snaps into place. Operate tilter shaft until the flat portion of the rod lines up with the flat portion inside the tilter. Push the rod back through the tilter and replace cap/brace. For a cord tilt, make certain the tassel are even when the blind is in the OPEN position. The tassels must be attached AFTER the cord tilter is installed.
Adjust the universal hardware as per the installation instructions
Adjust return up and down to even. Ensure plastic insert has been pushed to bottom of groove using a thin long screwdriver. You may also add an extra insert at the top of the groove.
[Return to top of page]Possible Cause: Cords may be caught in the headrail. This can also happen if the "C" Clips are not evenly spaced on the tilt rod in the headrail.
Solution: If cording is caught in the headrail, unhook the cording, then raise and lower the shade several times to check the operation.
Sometimes on rather large shades, the piece that keeps the long metals strips from rubbing against the headrail moves out of position. This piece is a small plastic component that all the spears run through. Simply push this plastic component to the end of the metal spears and this should eliminate the noise.
Untie the upper knot from the thinner cord that feeds into the cord accumulator. Push the stop ball up to the desired location and tie the knot again. Before cutting off excess cording, please lower the blind to ensure the length of the shade and the controls are satisfactory.
Remove control end cap by lifting the tab on the top of the headrail that locks the cap into place. The cap should then easily pop off. Remove frayed cordloop by gently lifting the cord and turning the mechanism (Tip: a screwdriver inserted into the center of the mechanism allows for easy rotation). Start new cordloop into the pulley by placing the cord into one of the teeth of the gear. Rotate the cordloop into place. Replace control cap.
Contact place of purchase for an authorized repair.
[Return to top of page]If you notice your shade is creeping up from the bottom or sagging from the top, please look inside the headrail to check for factory installed friction clips. Contact customer service to receive friction clips and instructions to install into the spring motor. OR for shades that sagging down from the top when raised, remove the bottomrail end caps from one end and look for one or more pieces of steel rod. Remove one piece at a time and check for improved performance. Replace end caps.
In some instances, the lift tapes (white ribbons) in your cordless shade can become entangled. This problem can typically be solved by pulling the shade down completely. This will usually realign the tapes. Prevention Tip: Always lift your shade from the middle rather than the sides and do not lift too quickly as this creates slack in the ribbons.
Look inside the headrail at the spring motor and check for friction clips. Remove 1 and/or all of the friction clips and check for improved operation.
Gently pull down on the bottomrail to reactivate the spring. Tip: Anytime you leave your blinds in the closed position for an extended period of time, the spring will need to be reset in order to function properly.
The clutch needs to be reset. First, take the shade out of the window. It will slide out of the brackets. Then looking down into the top of the headrail, locate the large white clutch inside the headrail . This part is usually located on the right side. Next, turn the clutch towards the back of the headrail and keep turning it until you hear a small click, at that time the shade should retract on it's own.
[Return to top of page]When the blind is packaged for shipment the slats are fully raised. When you initially attempt to lower the slats the cord lock may not release causing the slats to not lower. First, mount the blind in the window. Then hold the lift cords level with the headrail and pull. This should release the cord lock. If this does not fix the problem, take the blind out of the window. Locate the cord lock mechanism in the headrail (the lift cords run through this). You will see a pin that should slide (but is not). Using a flat head (avoiding contact with the cording) screwdriver, turn the screwdriver perpendicular to the headrail. Push the pin to disengage the cords. NOTE: As soon as you release the pin, the slats will lower. Be sure no one is in the way when the slats release or they may be injured.
A guardian tilter continues turning even when the blind is fully closed preventing the mechanism from breaking. If the blind is small, there is a potential for disengagement. To re-engage the tilter, proceed as follows; If the slats are closed in the down position, turn the wand counter clockwise and at the same time pull down gently on the back string of the ladders (supporting the slats). If the slats are closed in the up position, turn the wand clockwise and gently pull down on the front string of the ladders. If the above steps do not correct the problem, see replacing a tilter.
Remove blind from window. Remove wand. Remove metal end brace or plastic end cap from the headrail. Move the tilt rod out of the wand tilter. Replace the tilter and push down until it snaps into place. Turn tilter shaft until the flat portion of the rod lines up with the flat portion inside the tilter. Push the rod back through the tilter and replace cap/brace.
If the cords are not broken, you do not have to remove the blind. Remove the ladder cap from the under side of the bottom rail. Now that the ends of the cords are exposed within the bottom rail, pull them out slightly. Cut the old cord above the knot and weld the ends of the old and new cord together using a lighter or match. Roll the joined cords between your fingers to create a smooth weld. From the cordlock side, gently pull the tassel toward the left and this will pull the new cording through the same path. When the cording gets to the length you wish for the controls to be, tie a knot in the ends by the bottom rail and cut off the excess. Replace the tassel and repeat process for additional cords.
Remove the ladder cap from the under side of the bottom rail. This will expose the ends of the cords, which you can then pull out slightly. Cut the cord just above the knot and then pull the cord up through the last damaged slat. Remove the slats and replace them with the new ones, making sure that you insert the slats so that the route holes are aligned with the existing slats. Then weave the cords through the route holes being certain to alternate the sides of the ladder rungs as you proceed down the blind. Reinsert the cords into the bottom rail and tie them off. Replace caps.
[Return to top of page]Raise the blind and then extend the blind completely. Repeat this operation slowly several times until blind hangs correctly.
If you notice your blind is creeping up from the bottom or sagging from the top, please look inside the headrail to check for factory installed friction clips. Contact customer service to receive friction clips and instructions to install into the spring motor. OR for shades that are sagging down from the top when raised, remove the bottom rail end caps from one end and look for one or more pieces of steel rod. Remove one piece at a time and check for improved performance. Replace end caps.
Look inside the headrail at the spring motor and check for friction clips. Remove 1 and/or all of the friction clips and check for improved operation.
Gently pull down on the bottomrail to reactivate the spring. Tip: Anytime you leave your blinds in the closed position for an extended period of time, the spring will need to be reset in order to function properly.
[Return to top of page]When the blinds are first received, some times the vanes do not fully open and partially obstruct the view when the shade is fully lowered. This is due to static. We recommend purchasing DowneySpray Wrinkle Remover. When sprayed on the shade, both front and back, this product will remove the static that causes the partially open condition. This product will not harm the fabric and is recommended by Comfortex as a solution to this proble with Shangr-La Window Shadings.
[Return to top of page]First make sure that the brackets are not rubbing against the ends of the roller or that the brackets have not been bent. Pull the shade partially down. Remove from brackets. Increase tension by rolling up the shade two revolutions. Replace in brackets and test. Repeat the procedure until the shade rolls up with proper tension.
Decrease tension by raising the shade to the top and remove from brackets. Unroll approximately 18& by hand and replace in brackets. Repeat until proper tension is achieved.
Some fabrics have a tendency to telescope to one side or the other when being rolled up. To alleviate this, unroll the shade until you can see where the fabric is attached to the roller, put a small piece of masking tape at the attachment on the opposite from where the shade is telescoping. A second or even third piece can be placed on to alleviate more extreme telescoping issues.
[Return to top of page]When you want to remove a vane, slide a thin flat object (credit card, etc.) up the vane on the hook side of the vane holder. Then slide the vane and card down and out of the vane holder (vane should slide out easily). If process is difficult, verify that the vane is not sliding back onto the hook.
Remove vane. Notice that the carrier body in the headrail has a rectangular hole which the stem fits into. Align the carrier stem that needs adjustment with the hole. Insert a piece of string into the stem. Grasp the stem and push it into the carrier body. Now operate the rotation chain. You will now notice the stem now inside the body will NOT rotate. With the controls chain, rotate all other stems to line up with the one to be adjusted. Grasp both ends of the string and pull downward to move the stem back into the operable position. Reattach vane.
Remove control end cap. You will see a pulley with a rod in the center. On this rod is a round metal washer with a ragged center (looks like a star). Occasionally this push nut is attached too tightly during production. Tap the control rod lightly on the opposite end of the headrail and this will loosen the push nut and the controls should operate more smoothly.
Look inside the headrail and find the vane carrier where the cord ends in a knot. Hold that carrier and pull out the es\xcess cord until the cord safety device reaches the desired height. Tie a knot in the cord at that position. Do not cut off the excess at this point. Operate the controls to determine if everything works smoothly and the control cord is the desired length. Tighten the know and cut the cord 1/2" below the knot.
To create an overlap, mount the headrails with non-control ends touching. Look inside the headrail and you will see several small whitish tubes attached at the ends (The spacer tubes are c-shaped and can be popped off with a screwdriver). Remove one or more of these tubes which will allow that vane to move closer to the edge of the rail allowing for overlap.
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